Theodore scarf/ Teodor

Skonczylam wlasnie na dniach szalik. Wzor nazywa sie Teodor, a ja bardzo lubie brzmienie tego imienia, poniewaz kojarzy mi sie ze smokiem Teodorem z dziecinstwa.  Instrukcje sa po angielsku (link TUTAJ), ale jest tam tez schemat (chart). Tlumacze wiec legende do schematu. 

Czarna kropka: przerobic oczko na lewo, po prawej stronie; przerobic na prawo po lewej stronie.

Pusty kwadrat: przerobic oczko na prawo, po prawej stronie; przerobic na lewo, po lewej stronie.

Scieg skierowany w lewo (left twist): przerobic drugie oczko na prawo (od tylu), nie zrzucac z druta, nastepnie przerobic razem oczko pierwsze z tym drugim na prawo (od tylu). To tak, ze te drugie oczko jest w zasadzie przerabiane dwa razy. 

Scieg skierowany w prawo (right twist): orientowac/ustawic oczka tak, aby mozna je bylo przerobic na prawo, ale od przodu. Przerobic dwa oczka na prawo od przodu, ale nie zrzucac z druta. Nastepnie przerobic pierwsze oczko na prawo (od przodu). Czyli, ze pierwsze oczko jest przerabiane w sumie dwa razy. 

Wzor, chociaz niesamowicie latwy, to jednak jest troche nudny w robocie (wogole szaliki sa dla mnie raczej nudne do dziergania) i dlatego dlubalam go miesiacami. 

Wloczka, ktorej uzylam to Playful Evolution z Twisted Fiber Art;  kolor: Mon Petit Chou (tylko na zdjeciu kolory wyszly okropnie, radze zobaczyc je na stronie producenta). Jest to dosyc droga wloczka, 100% mieciusienkiej, sprezystej, wspanialej welenki, ale warto sobie na nia uzbierac. No, to pozdrawiam Was serdecznie, oraz dziekuje za zyczenia swiateczne i noworoczne. Do zobaczenia z nastepna robotka. :-)

I recently finished my Theodore Scarf (link to a free pattern here). Although it was very easy to knit, I found it somewhat boring, and consequently, it took me a long time to make. The yarn I used is Playful Evolution from Twisted Fiber Art; colourway: Mon Petit Chou (the colours in real life are much more beautiful; check them out on Twisted Fiber Art website). Although it's pricy, this 100% wool yarn is very soft, springy and absolutely wonderful. It is well worth it to save some money for it. 

Thank you for the Holiday wishes. See you until next project!  :-)

Lilac Leaf Scarf/Liscie Bzu

Skonczylam sobie wczoraj koronkowy szaliczek (wiecej fotek na koncu postu). Zajal dosyc dlugo bo to nie dosc, ze wloczka cieniuska (ok. 0.6 mm grubosci, uzylam drutow US 2), to jeszcze odlozylam go na jakis czas zeby robic inne robotki. Zdaje sobie sprawe, ze kolorki raczej dla odwaznych, ale dla mnie efekt jest bardzo wesoly i wiosenny. Wzor szaliczka to Lilac Leaf Stole z ksiazki Knitted Lace of Estonia. Te z Was, ktore maja ksiazke Haapsalu Sall, prawdopodobnie znajda tam bardzo podobne (jezeli nie te same) elementy. Wzor jest w zasadzie latwy do wykonania i zapamietania, czyli nic strasznego i nic wspolnego z czarna magia. Wbrew pozorom, robienie azurow na drutach jest bardzo proste. Najwazniejsze w tym wszystkim to dobra organizacja pracy, nie dziergac podczas silnego zmeczenia i "narzedzia" pomocne w postaci znacznikow i innych ulubionych gadzetow do szycia i 'drutowania'.  Moze kiedys napisze w jaki sposob ulatwiam sobie dzierganie azurow. Wloczke (welna merino) zakupilam w sklepie internetowym (na Etsy) Play at Life Fiber Arts. Jesli sie nie myle, to kobietka robi wysylki na caly swiat i chyba raczej niedrogo (dla mnie w Kanadzie jest dosyc tanio).

Dziekuje za odwiedziny na blogu. Zycze Wam radosnych i spokojnych swiat Wielkiej Nocy.

I finished my lace scarf yesterday (more photos at the end of this post). It took some time to finish, but then, the yarn is very thin (approx. 0.6 mm thick; I used size 2 needles), and it got put on a back burner several times. I realize that the colors are rather bright, but for me, the effect is very cheerful and Springy. The pattern I used here is the Lilac Leaf Shawl from Knitted Lace of Estonia. It is a relatively easy pattern to execute. For those of you not familiar with knitting lacy patterns, please believe me that they are really not that hard. It is, however, easy to loose your place in the pattern, hence a good organization, avoiding knitting when fatigued or very stressed, and using great knitting tools like stitch markers make the project a lot easier and thus more enjoyable. Maybe some day, I'll write a post about things I do/use to make knitting lace patterns easier for me.  The yarn, which I used for this project is 100% Merino, and I bought it from Play at Life Fiber Arts. 

Thank you for visiting my blog. Have a wonderful and happy Easter!

A break from other projects/Przerwa na szalik

Wiecie co? Zmeczyly mnie troche te wszystkie absorbujace robotki, ktore mam w toku. Ciagle trzeba uwazac zeby nie pomylic kolorow, sciegow, itp., itd. Najlepszym antidotum (oczywiscie robotkowym) jest wydzierganie czegos latwego, szybkiego i koniecznie z jakiejs przemilej wloczki. W ramach takiegoz wlasnie antidotum powstal krotki szaliczek z broszka. Niesamowicie latwy i szybki w wykonaniu. Dokladny wzor (Ruffled & Ruched scarf) mozna kupic na Ravelry, albo tutaj. Jednak same/sami przyznacie, ze takie cos mozna bardzo latwo stworzyc bez wzoru. Ot, po prostu dodajemy oczka tam, gdzie chcemy miec marszczenia, a potem je odejmujemy jezeli znow chcemy miec gladki material. To samo na brzegach, tylko w wersji sciagaczowej i juz nie odejmujemy oczek na koncu. Calosc jest robiona "od srodka" w dwoch etapach. W pierwszym etapie nabieramy oczka tak, zeby w drugiej czesci je ponownie wlozyc na druty i zaczac robic w przeciwnym kierunku.  Tak poza tym, to w sieci jest sporo darmowych wzorow na takie marszczenia, wiec wystarczy tylko poszukac i pokombinowac jezeli ma sie na to czas i ochote.  Co do tej przemilej wloczki... Uzylam tutaj jedna z moich ulubionych welen - Malabrigo Merino Worsted. To jest wloczka tak 'krzepiaca' i mila, jak dobry, cieply rosolek dla chorego czlowieka. Nie jest to wloczka najtansza (ale tez nie najdrozsza), dlatego czesto uzywa sie tylko 1-3 motki, co z reszta nie jest takie znowu zle, bo z reguly nie nadaje sie ona do wiekszych projektow jak swetry czy koce (jest to wloczka z luzno skreconych wlokien wiec bardzo sie mechaci i filcuje w takich sytuacjach).  Za to szaliki i czapki z niej zrobione sa bosko miekkie i cieplusienkie, i chociaz sa z 100% welny, to nie drapia ani troche. Jakis czas temu zrobilam kilka czapek z tej wloczki i nadal wygladaja jak nowe.  Musze tez dodac, ze kolory jakie Malabrigo oferuje sa przepyszne. Zadne zdjecie nie odda tej glebi barw i odcieni!!! Jezeli kiedys nadarzy sie Wam okazja aby uzyc tej welny (n.p. zakupy na eBay'u), to bardzo polecam.  No nic, koniec tej 'ody  na czesc Malabrigo'.  Odpoczelam troche od innych robotek, ale juz dzisiaj do nich wracam.  Pozdrawiam Was serdecznie, dziekuje za przemile komentarze i odwiedziny na blogu. Jezeli chodzi o odpowiedzi na komentarze, to postanowilam, ze bede ich udzielac w sekcji z komentarzami.  Zycze milego dnia/wieczoru.

  You know what? I got a little tired with all my knitting projects - they are either a little too time consuming and thus take forever, or require a bit too much concentration. The best antidote for this is to knit something easy, fast and from a wonderful yarn. And that's just what I did. The short scarf pictured in this post was super easy and fast to make. The Ruffled & Ruched Scarf pattern can be purchased either via Ravelry or from KnitPurl. The yarn I used here is Malabrigo Merino Worsted - one of my favourites. This yarn is as wonderful and comforting as a warm, yummy chicken soup is for a person with a cold. It's not the cheapest yarn (although not terribly expensive), hence people often use 1-3 skeins for a project. Still, since this yarn is single-ply and thus pills easily, it's not very suitable for bigger projects which will require lots of wear/friction (e.g. sweaters, blankets). However, I can comfortably say that hats and scarves made with this yarn are heavenly soft, toasty warm and not at all scratchy (unless you're super extra sensitive).  I have to add that the colours of Malabrigo yarns are simply amazing. I have yet to find a photograph that properly captures the depth and nuances of their shades. OK, enough of this 'ode to Malabrigo'. Today, it's back to my other knitting projects. Thank you for visiting my blog. When it comes to responding to your comments, I shall continue to do that in the Comments section - I find it more organized that way. Have a wonderful day/evening.

Two new projects done/Dwie nowe robotki skonczone

Dzisiaj, znowu o dwoch robotkach. Obie male, latwe w wykonaniu, wiec robilo sie dosyc szybko, przy telewizji, przyjemnie.

To rozowe powyzej to Scaruffle (czyli luzno tlumaczac szaliko-falbanka). Caly czas robi sie oczkami prawymi, uzywajac rzedow skroconych, zwiekszajac liczbe oczek w jednym rzedzie. I to w zasadzie wszystko.  Acha, no i jeszcze na duzych drutach, dlatego idzie 'blyskawicznie'. Bardzo fajny wzor na robienie prezentow gwiazdkowych ( i nie tylko), bo i szybko, i przyjemnie, i luksusowo dla prezento-odbiorcy.  Jesli ktos chce, to moze znalezc dokladne instrukcje w ksiazce The Knitter's Book of Yarn Clary Parkes (swietna ksiazka o wloczkach, ich kompozycjach, wlasciwosciach, plus wzory - polecam). Wloczka, ktora uzylam, to 100% poliester - taki moherowaty w dotyku - bo robilam to dla corki, wiec musi wytrzymac pralke i codzienny uzytek. Wiele robotkowiczek uzywa jednak moherow, moherow z jedwabiem (np. Rowan Kidsilk Haze), dajac w efekcie mieciutka mgielke, ktora chcialoby sie otulac w nieskonczonosc.  Ponizej przedstawiam dodatkowe zdjecia mojej Scaruffle.

Today, I'm showing two new things I finished recently. Because both are small and easy to knit (they make great TV knitting projects), it didn't take long to make them.
The pink thing in photo above is called Scaruffle. It mostly requires just knit stitches and short rows, with one row of increases. And, oh yeah, large needles. That's about it. Easy, fast, great for quick, yet yummy gifts. You can find the pattern in The Knitter's Book of Yarn by Clara Parkes of Knitter's Review.  It's a wonderful book on many levels, and I highly recommend it. In it, Clara helps you understand, know, appreciate and choose your yarns better. Anyway, the yarn I used for my Scaruffle happens to be a 100% polyester from a dollar store. Yes, you read that correctly - polyester AND from a dollar store. I made this for my little DD, so the thing had to be made from something that would withstand a washing machine and daily wear. However, I am pleasantly surprised by how soft and nice this yarn is to touch and to knit with. ( I guess I don't qualify for a Yarn Snob of the Year award ;-)  Not that I'd really want to be a Yarn Snob of the Year. Or Day, or a Month.).  Of course, a lot of knitters choose to use something more luxurious for this project, (e.g.  Rowan Kidsilk Haze), producing, in effect, an ethereal, soft, luxurious 'cloud' that you want to touch and wear forever. See below for more photos of the Scaruffle.

No, a teraz robotka nr. 2, czyli spodniczka dla coreczki. Tez niesamowicie latwa, lekko rozkloszowana, gumka w pasie, falbanki. Robilam oczywiscie na wyrost, wiec jest troszeczke luznawa, ale mala rosnie jak na drozdzach, wiec niedlugo ja nalezycie wypelni. Wzor nazywa sie Ruffled Skirt i jest projektu Eweliny Murach, tej samej od sukieneczki z kwiatkiem (ten sam rodzaj falbanki). Opis mozna zakupic na Ravelry. Wloczka, to Sonata z Elann (kolor Inca Gold), 100% bawelny.  Zdjecia spodniczki ponizej.

Project #2 is a Ruffled Skirt (pattern by Ewelina Murach, same one who designed this dress). Super easy to knit, gradually widened by increases, has knitted-on ruffles and an integral elastic casing at the waist.  It is a bit too loose on my DD right now, but since she grows so fast, it'll fit her properly in no time.  The pattern can be purchased via Ravelry here. The yarn I used is Elann's Sonata (colour: Inca Gold). See photos of the skirt below.

No, i to tyle na dzisiaj, i na jakis czas. Zabralam sie wlasnie za dwa nastepne projekty, ale one juz sa troche bardziej skomplikowane/wieksze, wiec wymagaja wiecej uwagi, liczenia rzedow, zmiany kolorow i sciegow, a to zabiera sporo czasu.

Dziekuje wszystkim za odwiedziny na blogu. Zycze milego dnia/wieczoru.

All righty then, that's it for today, and for some time.  I just started two new projects, which are a bit more complicated than the two above. They require keeping track of rows, patterns and colours, and consequently, require more time to complete.
Thank you for visiting my blog. Have a wonderful day/evening.

Triinu

Skonczylam wlasnie szal Triinu. Wzor jest z ksiazki "Knitted Lace of Estonia: Techniques, Patterns, and Traditions" Nancy Bush. Tylko zeby wyszedl z tego szal a nie szalik, poszerzylam go troche i przedluzylam wzor na koncowkach. Wloczka, ktora zuzylam to Peruvian Baby Silk (80% alpaka, 20% jedwab). Jest dosyc gruba jak na azurowy wzor, ale taka chcialam zeby szal byl przede wszystkim cieply a jednoczesnie leciutki i mieciutki. Bardzo fajnie sie go dziergalo, latwo i szybko. Zdjecia raczej marne, bo pogoda ponura a jutro musze wyslac szal do nowej wlascicielki, wiec nie da rady czekac na lepsza pogode i swiatlo. Bardzo dziekuje wszystkim za odwiedziny na blogu. Zycze wspanialego dnia/wieczoru.

I just finished the Triinu stole. The pattern is from Knitted Lace of Estonia: Techniques, Patterns, and Traditions by Nancy Bush. Because I wanted a stole not a scarf, I added more pattern repeats and elongated the border sections. I chose Peruvian Baby Silk for this project (80% alpaca, 20% silk), because I wanted a predominantly warm, yet very light and soft stole. Triinu was very easy and relatively fast to knit. The photos are rather poor, because the weather here is very dreary, rainy and blah, and I can't wait for a better light, since the stole is going on a trip to its new home tomorrow. Thank you for visiting my blog. Have a wonderful day/evening.

 

 

The Eagle Feathers Scarf

This is a free pattern.
NOTE: This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell it, or any scarf made from this pattern.

A few notes first:

A couple of people asked me how I made this scarf, so I decided to write the directions down, since I find it easier than trying to explain these things verbally. When putting this scarf together, I utilized some stitch patterns from Barbara Walker's "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns", namely the "Daintier Chevron", "Dainty Chevron" and "Arrow Pattern".

This scarf is knit in two parts, starting from the middle toward the ends. What you can do is knit each piece separately and then join in the middle, or do a provisional cast on, and just start knitting the second half from the provisional live sts (instructions are in the recipe). The border used in this scarf is a 2 st seed stitch on the sides and 3 rows on either end. Feel free to improvise here - make it wider/narrower/garter st – whatever suits your taste.

 

This is what the join of the two halves looks like when done with a provisional cast on:

Overall, the scarf would look and behave MUCH better in wool or alpaca yarn – something that blocks better than silk and that doesn’t stretch into infinity. I made a poor choice of yarn based on someone else’s suggestion and my yarn inexperience at the time. Still, the scarf looks great on, plus I aimed for an extra long scarf, so it’s not so bad.

This pattern would look very pretty in a fingering wt yarn. You can just add more pattern repeats to make the scarf wide/long enough for your needs (it’ll be a Baby Eagle feathers scarf or some other small birdie feathers scarf :-) ). In that case, take time to swatch in pattern.

This scarf is relatively easy to knit. However, because PART 1 requires patterning on both the Right and Wrong sides, the use of lifelines and stitch markers is highly recommended.

Knitting maneuvers required:

Knit

Purl

Yo

Ssk

K2 tog (p2 tog through back loop)

P2 tog

P2 tog-b
Sl 1-k2tog-psso (sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just knit)

Sl 2-k1-p2sso
Sl 2-p1-p2sso (sl 2 as if to purl through back loop, p1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just purled)

Yarn used: Laines du Nord Mulberry Silk

Needles used: US size 8

Finished scarf size: approx. 20cm by 200 cm (but it grew longer since then). I used approx. 3 x 50 g (136 yd) balls

Ball Band gauge: 23 sts/29 rows per 4” on US 7-8 needles

Gauges in either pattern (3repeats and 1x10 row repeat):

Approx. 18 cm wide x 3-3.5 cm high

THE RECIPE

*It’s quite repetitive in places, but I wanted to minimize any ambiguities that may arise.

This is NOT written by a professional designer or pattern maker.

Co 29sts (or a multiple of 8+1, + 4 for the border).

Important: If you’re using a provisional cast on, depending on the type you used, you might want to co 30 sts, since some provisional cast-ons will result in one less st when it’s time to pick up for the second half of the scarf. Before you proceed too far, check that you have 29 provisional sts to be picked up later. Or, some people like to increase 1 st later, it’s up to you. I used a provisional cast on shown here:

http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/fleegles-totally-stretchy-provisional.html

***sts in bold indicate border sts

PART 1

1. (Starting on Right Side): k1, p1 (OR… p2tog if you co 30sts provisionally), k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

4. k1, p1, p2, * yo, p2tog, p1, p2 tog-b, yo, p3; rep from *, ending last repeat with p2 (not p3), p1, k1.

5. k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.

6. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

7. k1, p1, k1, * ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * yo, p2 tog, p3, p2 tog-b, yo, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

9. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.

10. k1, p1, p3, * yo, sl 2-p1-p2sso, yo, p5; rep from * ending last repeat with p3 (not p5), p1, k1.

Do as many ten-row repeats like this, as desired. I did 15 for an extra long scarf, but 10 is also OK, while retaining the general proportions of the design.

Continue on to Part 2.

PART 2

1. (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. repeat row 1 of Part 2
   
4. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
   
6. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
   
7. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
9. k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.
10. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Repeat PART 2 one more time.

Continue on to Part 3.

PART 3

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 2 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 4.

PART 4

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 3 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 two more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 5.

PART 5

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 4 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 three more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 6.

PART 6

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 5 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 four more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 7.

PART 7

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 7 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 six more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 8.

PART 8

Seed st border and bind off.

1. *(k1, p1) , repeat from * until last stitch, k1.
2. repeat row 1 two more times.
3. Bind off, in pattern, relatively loosely. ( I used US size 11 needles ).

PART 9

The first half of the scarf is now done.

If you used a regular cast on, make another half of the scarf exactly like the first one.

Join the two halves in your preferred way.

If you did a provisional cast on, start the second half of the scarf in the following way:

1. Join yarn to your work, so that you’ll start knitting on the wrong side of your scarf. Make sure that you have 29 sts on the needle.
2. (WS) k1, p1, p until last two sts, p1, k1.
3. (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
4. Continue exactly as for the first half, starting with row 2 of PART 1.

Block your scarf and enjoy.

If you notice any mistakes in the pattern, please let me know. Boo boos happen, no matter how much we try to prevent them.