Maggie's Snowflake 2/Znowu Sniezynka

What can I say? The snowflakes are multiplying.  They're addictive. It's not enough that I have about a gazillion snowflake patterns in my collection already. Nooooo.... I had to go and design another one. Why? Because I can? Not sure.  Anyway, today I am posting a pattern for Maggie's Snowflake 2, with instructions to make 2 other versions of it. The main version is A. Verisions B and C differ from version A only in round 3. I put specific instructions for the different round 3's under their respective sections.

No coz, sniezynki sie mnoza. Trudno im sie oprzec. Chociaz juz i tak mam pelno wzorow na sniezynki w swojej kolekcji, to jakies licho mnie podkusilo i zrobilam nastepna sniezynke po swojemu. A dlaczego by nawet nie? Znowu podaje przepis, ale po angielsku. Nie wiem jeszcze, czy zamieszcze instrukcje po polsku na blogu.

NOTE: This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell it, or snowflake(s) made from this pattern.

Recipe for Maggie's Snowflake 2

I used DMC Cebelia, size 10 crochet thread

Hook size 1.5 mm
Commercially available fabric stiffener

Resulting snowflake is 5 3/8" in diameter.

Abbreviations and additional instructions:

ch - chain(s)
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet

trtr – triple treble crochet
sk - skip
sl st - slip stitch

***Small Picot = chain 4, slip stitch into 4th chain from the hook

***Medium Picot = chain 5, slip stitch into 5th chain from the hook

***Large Picot = chain 6, slip stitch into 6th chain from the hook


VERSION A (photo above)

Round 1
Make a base adjustable ring. Here are instructions on how to do that, from Stitch Diva Studios. Ch 3 (counts as 1 sc + 2 ch), (1 dc, ch 2, 1 sc, ch 2) 5 times, dc, ch 2, sl st to first ch of ch 3 at the beginning of round 1.

Round 2
Ch 7 (counts as 1 dc + ch 4), small picot, ch 4, (dc in next sc, ch 4, small picot, ch 4) 5 times, sl st to third ch of ch 7 at beginning of round 2.

Round 3 for Version A (instructions for round 3 for Version B and C are in the sections "Version B" and "Version C" respectively)
Ch 11 (counts as 1 tr + ch 7), medium picot, ch 7, (tr in next dc, ch 7, medium picot, ch 7) 5 times, sl st to fourth ch of ch 11 at beginning of round 3.

Round 4
Ch 9 (counts as trtr), * # ch 14, sl st in second ch from hook and in the next 9 ch,
ch 10, sl st in second ch from hook and in the next 6 ch,
ch 8, large picot, 3 dc in the next ch from hook, sl st in fourth ch from hook and in next 3 ch,
ch 8, sl st in second ch from hook and in next 8 ch,
ch 11, sl st in second ch from hook and in next 12 ch,
sc on top of trtr (note: the very first time, you’ll sc on top of ch 9 that began this round),
ch 15, large picot, ch 15 #, trtr in next tr *.

Repeat from * to * 4 times more, then from # to # 1 time. Sl st to ninth ch of ch 9 at beginning of round 4.

Tie off. Cut and secure thread.


Saturate finished snowflake with fabric stiffener of your choice. Block/shape into desired form.



VERSION B

Reminder: Make rounds 1, 2 and 4 as in Version A.
In this version B of round 3, instead of one medium picot following and preceding ch 7, you’ll do a cluster of medium picots. Sorry for the crummy blocking job - I was VERY tired.

Round 3 for Version B
Ch 11 (counts as 1 tr + ch 7), ch 2, (medium picot) 3 times, sl st in the first ch from hook and in the next ch, ch 7, (tr in next dc, ch 7, ch 2, [medium picot]3 times, sl st in the first ch from hook and in the next ch, ch 7) 5 times, sl st to fourth ch of ch 11 at beginning of round 3.



VERSION C

Reminder: Make rounds 1, 2 and 4 as in Version A.
In this version C of round 3, instead of one medium picot following and preceding ch 7, you’ll do a chain loop, which can be blocked to rhomboid shapes. No, this is not a ghastly blocking job on the rhomboids - this is just a sketch version, since I did not have time to crochet version C. However, this does give you an idea of what the rhomboids would look like.

Round 3 for Version C
Ch 11 (counts as 1 tr + ch 7), ch 16, sl st in sixteenth ch from hook, ch 7, (tr in next dc, ch 7, ch 16, sl st in sixteenth ch from hook, ch 7) 5 times, sl st to fourth ch of ch 11 at beginning of round 3.


And that's about it.

Snowflake/Sniezynka

Making crochet snowflakes for Christmas has become a bit of a tradition in my house. They're addictive, easy, fast to make and look cute, especially en masse. I usually use ready patterns found in various books and on the web and this year I have done so, too. However, as I was browsing the web one day, I found a photo of this cute snowflake and decided to try to replicate it in crochet. Well, maybe not replicate it, but at least get the gist of it. To my surprise, this specific snowflake was relatively easy to design and execute, although a bit fiddly due to the thinness of the yarn. A little further in this post, you'll find the recipe for this snowflake. Please, keep in mind that I am not a professional crochet designer/pattern writer. If you find any glaring mistakes in the pattern instructions, please let me know. Enjoy.

Robienie sniezynek szydelkiem jest od jakiegos czasu tradycja w moim domu. Trudno im sie oprzec bo latwe, szybko sie robi i fajnie wygladaja, szczegolnie w duzych ilosciach. Przewaznie robie z gotowych wzorow w ksiazkach, albo z internetu. W tym roku tez tak jest, z tym, ze pewnego dnia, bladzac po internecie, natrafilam na zdjecie takiej oto sniezynki i postanowilam sprobowac ja odtworzyc na szydelku. Nawet latwa byla w projekcie i wykonaniu, tylko ze troche zmudna, bo i nici dosyc cienkie, i powtarzajacy sie wzor. Zalaczam ponizej przepis na te sniezynke, ale po angielsku. Jezeli ktos by chcial po polsku, to poprosze do mnie napisac - chetnie sproboje przetlumaczyc indywidualnie.















Click on the above photo to enlarge.

Recipe for Maggie's Snowflake 1

NOTE: This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell it, or snowflake(s) made from this pattern.

Materials:

I used size 20 cotton crochet thread
Crochet hook size 1.5 mm
Commercially available fabric stiffener

Resulting snowflake is 5 1/8" in diameter.

Abbreviations and additional instructions:

ch - chain(s)
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet
sk - skip
sl st - slip stitch

***Make Picot = chain 4, slip stitch into 4th chain from the hook

Please click on the photo of snowflake with explanations drawn on it, in order to enlarge it.


Make a base adjustable ring. Here are instructions on how to do that, from Stitch Diva Studios.

Round 1
Ch 2 (counts as 1 sc + 1 ch), (sc, ch 1) 11 times, slip st to 1st chain of the round. You just completed a base circle, and you should have 12 ch1 spaces.

Round 2
Ch 8 (first 3 chains count as 1 dc), * # hdc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 9, make picot, ch 7, make picot, ch 7, slip st into 7th ch from hook, make picot, slip st into the 3rd slip st from hook (see Fig. 1A [you just made a picot cluster - Fig.1], (ch 3, make picot, ch 7, slip into 7th ch from hook, make picot, slip st into the 3rd slip st from hook) twice, ch 3, slip st into 3rd chain under the 1st picot cluster (Fig.2), ch 4, make picot, ch 4, slip st into 4th ch under the first picot (Fig. 3), slip st into next 5 ch, ch2, slip st into base of hdc cluster, slip st into next 3 chains;

ch 3, sk next ch 1 space of base circle, tr in next sc of base circle, ch 10, slip st into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 5 ch, ch 9, slip st into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 4 ch, ch 8, slip st into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 3 ch, ch 5, 2 dc into 3rd ch from hook, make picot, ch 4, slip st into base of 2 dc cluster, slip st into next 2 ch, ch 6, slip st into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 5 ch [two of these ch are part of the "stem" of the "branch" you're making], ch 7, slip st into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 6 ch, ch 8, slip into 3rd ch from hook, slip st into next 7 ch, ch 3 # , sk next ch 1 space of base circle, dc into next sc of base circle, ch 5 *.

Repeat all steps from * to * 4 times more. Then repeat all steps from # to # once. Slip st in 3rd chain from the beginning ch 8 of the round. Tie off, break yarn, weave in ends.

Saturate finished snowflake with fabric stiffener of your choice. Block/shape into desired form. Enjoy.

The Eagle Feathers Scarf

This is a free pattern.
NOTE: This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell it, or any scarf made from this pattern.

A few notes first:

A couple of people asked me how I made this scarf, so I decided to write the directions down, since I find it easier than trying to explain these things verbally. When putting this scarf together, I utilized some stitch patterns from Barbara Walker's "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns", namely the "Daintier Chevron", "Dainty Chevron" and "Arrow Pattern".

This scarf is knit in two parts, starting from the middle toward the ends. What you can do is knit each piece separately and then join in the middle, or do a provisional cast on, and just start knitting the second half from the provisional live sts (instructions are in the recipe). The border used in this scarf is a 2 st seed stitch on the sides and 3 rows on either end. Feel free to improvise here - make it wider/narrower/garter st – whatever suits your taste.

 

This is what the join of the two halves looks like when done with a provisional cast on:

Overall, the scarf would look and behave MUCH better in wool or alpaca yarn – something that blocks better than silk and that doesn’t stretch into infinity. I made a poor choice of yarn based on someone else’s suggestion and my yarn inexperience at the time. Still, the scarf looks great on, plus I aimed for an extra long scarf, so it’s not so bad.

This pattern would look very pretty in a fingering wt yarn. You can just add more pattern repeats to make the scarf wide/long enough for your needs (it’ll be a Baby Eagle feathers scarf or some other small birdie feathers scarf :-) ). In that case, take time to swatch in pattern.

This scarf is relatively easy to knit. However, because PART 1 requires patterning on both the Right and Wrong sides, the use of lifelines and stitch markers is highly recommended.

Knitting maneuvers required:

Knit

Purl

Yo

Ssk

K2 tog (p2 tog through back loop)

P2 tog

P2 tog-b
Sl 1-k2tog-psso (sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just knit)

Sl 2-k1-p2sso
Sl 2-p1-p2sso (sl 2 as if to purl through back loop, p1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just purled)

Yarn used: Laines du Nord Mulberry Silk

Needles used: US size 8

Finished scarf size: approx. 20cm by 200 cm (but it grew longer since then). I used approx. 3 x 50 g (136 yd) balls

Ball Band gauge: 23 sts/29 rows per 4” on US 7-8 needles

Gauges in either pattern (3repeats and 1x10 row repeat):

Approx. 18 cm wide x 3-3.5 cm high

THE RECIPE

*It’s quite repetitive in places, but I wanted to minimize any ambiguities that may arise.

This is NOT written by a professional designer or pattern maker.

Co 29sts (or a multiple of 8+1, + 4 for the border).

Important: If you’re using a provisional cast on, depending on the type you used, you might want to co 30 sts, since some provisional cast-ons will result in one less st when it’s time to pick up for the second half of the scarf. Before you proceed too far, check that you have 29 provisional sts to be picked up later. Or, some people like to increase 1 st later, it’s up to you. I used a provisional cast on shown here:

http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2006/12/fleegles-totally-stretchy-provisional.html

***sts in bold indicate border sts

PART 1

1. (Starting on Right Side): k1, p1 (OR… p2tog if you co 30sts provisionally), k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

4. k1, p1, p2, * yo, p2tog, p1, p2 tog-b, yo, p3; rep from *, ending last repeat with p2 (not p3), p1, k1.

5. k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.

6. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

7. k1, p1, k1, * ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * yo, p2 tog, p3, p2 tog-b, yo, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

9. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.

10. k1, p1, p3, * yo, sl 2-p1-p2sso, yo, p5; rep from * ending last repeat with p3 (not p5), p1, k1.

Do as many ten-row repeats like this, as desired. I did 15 for an extra long scarf, but 10 is also OK, while retaining the general proportions of the design.

Continue on to Part 2.

PART 2

1. (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. repeat row 1 of Part 2
   
4. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
   
6. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
   
7. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
9. k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.
10. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Repeat PART 2 one more time.

Continue on to Part 3.

PART 3

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 2 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 4.

PART 4

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 3 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 two more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 5.

PART 5

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 4 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 three more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 6.

PART 6

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 5 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 four more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 7.

PART 7

(In this part, row 1 will be worked 7 times in total.)

1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

3. Repeat row 1 and 2 six more times.

4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1

5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1

6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1

7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k

9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Continue on to Part 8.

PART 8

Seed st border and bind off.

1. *(k1, p1) , repeat from * until last stitch, k1.
2. repeat row 1 two more times.
3. Bind off, in pattern, relatively loosely. ( I used US size 11 needles ).

PART 9

The first half of the scarf is now done.

If you used a regular cast on, make another half of the scarf exactly like the first one.

Join the two halves in your preferred way.

If you did a provisional cast on, start the second half of the scarf in the following way:

1. Join yarn to your work, so that you’ll start knitting on the wrong side of your scarf. Make sure that you have 29 sts on the needle.
2. (WS) k1, p1, p until last two sts, p1, k1.
3. (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
4. Continue exactly as for the first half, starting with row 2 of PART 1.

Block your scarf and enjoy.

If you notice any mistakes in the pattern, please let me know. Boo boos happen, no matter how much we try to prevent them.