This is a free pattern.
NOTE: This pattern is for your personal use only. Please do not sell it, or any scarf made from this pattern.
A few notes first:
A couple of people asked me how I made this scarf, so I decided to write the directions down, since I find it easier than trying to explain these things verbally. When putting this scarf together, I utilized some stitch patterns from Barbara Walker's "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns", namely the "Daintier Chevron", "Dainty Chevron" and "Arrow Pattern".
This scarf is knit in two parts, starting from the middle toward the ends. What you can do is knit each piece separately and then join in the middle, or do a provisional cast on, and just start knitting the second half from the provisional live sts (instructions are in the recipe). The border used in this scarf is a 2 st seed stitch on the sides and 3 rows on either end. Feel free to improvise here - make it wider/narrower/garter st – whatever suits your taste.
This is what the join of the two halves looks like when done with a provisional cast on:
Overall, the scarf would look and behave MUCH better in wool or alpaca yarn – something that blocks better than silk and that doesn’t stretch into infinity. I made a poor choice of yarn based on someone else’s suggestion and my yarn inexperience at the time. Still, the scarf looks great on, plus I aimed for an extra long scarf, so it’s not so bad.
This pattern would look very pretty in a fingering wt yarn. You can just add more pattern repeats to make the scarf wide/long enough for your needs (it’ll be a Baby Eagle feathers scarf or some other small birdie feathers scarf :-) ). In that case, take time to swatch in pattern.
This scarf is relatively easy to knit. However, because PART 1 requires patterning on both the Right and Wrong sides, the use of lifelines and stitch markers is highly recommended.
Knitting maneuvers required:
Knit
Purl
Yo
Ssk
K2 tog (p2 tog through back loop)
P2 tog
P2 tog-b
Sl 1-k2tog-psso (sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just knit)
Sl 2-k1-p2sso
Sl 2-p1-p2sso (sl 2 as if to purl through back loop, p1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just purled)
Purl
Yo
Ssk
P2 tog
P2 tog-b
Sl 1-k2tog-psso (sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just knit)
Sl 2-k1-p2sso
Sl 2-p1-p2sso (sl 2 as if to purl through back loop, p1, then pass those 2 slipped sts over the one just purled)
Yarn used: Laines du Nord Mulberry Silk
Needles used: US size 8
Finished scarf size: approx. 20cm by 200 cm (but it grew longer since then). I used approx. 3 x 50 g (136 yd) balls
Ball Band gauge: 23 sts/29 rows per 4” on US 7-8 needles
Gauges in either pattern (3repeats and 1x10 row repeat):
Approx. 18 cm wide x 3-3.5 cm high
THE RECIPE
*It’s quite repetitive in places, but I wanted to minimize any ambiguities that may arise.
This is NOT written by a professional designer or pattern maker.
Co 29sts (or a multiple of 8+1, + 4 for the border).
Important: If you’re using a provisional cast on, depending on the type you used, you might want to co 30 sts, since some provisional cast-ons will result in one less st when it’s time to pick up for the second half of the scarf. Before you proceed too far, check that you have 29 provisional sts to be picked up later. Or, some people like to increase 1 st later, it’s up to you. I used a provisional cast on shown here:
***sts in bold indicate border sts
PART 1
1. (Starting on Right Side): k1, p1 (OR… p2tog if you co 30sts provisionally), k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
4. k1, p1, p2, * yo, p2tog, p1, p2 tog-b, yo, p3; rep from *, ending last repeat with p2 (not p3), p1, k1.
5. k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.
6. k1, p1, p1, * p2tog, (p1, yo) twice, p1, p2 tog-b, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
7. k1, p1, k1, * ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * yo, p2 tog, p3, p2 tog-b, yo, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
9. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.
10. k1, p1, p3, * yo, sl 2-p1-p2sso, yo, p5; rep from * ending last repeat with p3 (not p5), p1, k1.
Do as many ten-row repeats like this, as desired. I did 15 for an extra long scarf, but 10 is also OK, while retaining the general proportions of the design.
Continue on to Part 2.
PART 2
- (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
- k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
- repeat row 1 of Part 2
- k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
- k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
- k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
- k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1.
- k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
- k1, p1, k3, * yo, sl 2-k1-p2sso, yo, k5; rep from * ending last repeat with k3 (not k5), p1, k1.
- k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Repeat PART 2 one more time.
Continue on to Part 3.
PART 3
(In this part, row 1 will be worked 2 times in total.)
1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. Repeat row 1 and 2.
4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1
7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k
9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Continue on to Part 4.
PART 4
(In this part, row 1 will be worked 3 times in total.)
1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. Repeat row 1 and 2 two more times.
4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1
7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k
9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Continue on to Part 5.
PART 5
(In this part, row 1 will be worked 4 times in total.)
1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. Repeat row 1 and 2 three more times.
4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1
7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k
9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Continue on to Part 6.
PART 6
(In this part, row 1 will be worked 5 times in total.)
1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. Repeat row 1 and 2 four more times.
4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1
7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k
9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Continue on to Part 7.
PART 7
(In this part, row 1 will be worked 7 times in total.)
1. (RS) k1, p1, p1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, p1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
2. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
3. Repeat row 1 and 2 six more times.
4. (RS) k1, p1, k1, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k1
5. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1
6. k1, p1, k2, * yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * ending last repeat with k2 (not k3), p1, k1
7. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
8. k1, p1, p1, * k2, yo, sl 1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2, p1; rep from * until last 2 sts, p1, k
9. k1, p1, purl until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Continue on to Part 8.
PART 8
Seed st border and bind off.
- *(k1, p1) , repeat from * until last stitch, k1.
- repeat row 1 two more times.
- Bind off, in pattern, relatively loosely. ( I used
US
PART 9
The first half of the scarf is now done.
If you used a regular cast on, make another half of the scarf exactly like the first one.
Join the two halves in your preferred way.
If you did a provisional cast on, start the second half of the scarf in the following way:
- Join yarn to your work, so that you’ll start knitting on the wrong side of your scarf. Make sure that you have 29 sts on the needle.
- (WS) k1, p1, p until last two sts, p1, k1.
- (RS) k1, p1, k1, *ssk, (k1,yo) twice, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from* until last 2 sts, p1, k1.
- Continue exactly as for the first half, starting with row 2 of PART 1.
Block your scarf and enjoy.
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